Island Peak (6189m), also locally known as Imja Tse, is located in the Chhukung Valley of Everest Region. The mountain was named Island Peak in 1953 by Eric Shipton as it appears as an island in a sea of ice while viewed from the nearby village. It’s a stunning island of ice and rock circled by glaciers and high mountains, situated between Lhotse Wall to the north and Baruntse to the south. From its summit, the awe-inspiring views of Mt. Everest, Ama Dablam, Mt. Makalu, Mt. Nuptse, Mt. Baruntse, Mt. Lhotse can be seen. Island Peak is a famous trekking peak in Nepal and it is a dream of every amateur and serious climber, who seeks the thrill of Himalayan adventure and wish to take their adventure to next level beyond trekking.
Best time to Climb Island Peak
The most appropriate time to climb Island Peak is during spring season (March-May) and autumn season (September-November). Weather during these seasons remains stable in most of the part of Nepal, which is perfect for adventure activities. The visibility is great during this time. Most of the climbers choose spring season for expedition or peak climbing as the days are warmer compared to autumn season.
Are guides necessary for Island Peak
Island Peak is bit challenging compared to other trekking peaks due to its vertical ice faces and avalanche prone fields. You need to walk through ladders with crampons and without the support of guides and porters, you won’t be able to climb the peak. The equipment you need for climbing is also to be taken care by the guides and porters. Because of all these precautionary requirements, guide is mandatory.
Training required to climb Island Peak
Island Peak is a non-technical peak but it is difficult to climb due to the glaciers, rock and sheer ice faces on the trail. So, it is necessary to be physical fit to climb the peak. At extreme altitude, every climber’s body responds differently. If you are fit and in good shape, you will be able to enjoy the experience. 3-4 months training with focus on strength and endurance prior to the trip is highly recommended. Mental preparedness is also equally important as it’s an adventure in extreme altitude in harsh weather condition. Regarding the climbing training, you will be trained in the base camp by your guides prior to your climb.
Is Island Peak hard to climb?
It falls under non-technical peak category. But, the peak should not be your first Himalayan encounter. You are required to have some basic alpine skills and experience of altitude. Island Peak comprises of steep ice walls, glacier fields and crevasses. With proper acclimatization & right physical and mental preparedness, you will be able to face the challenges easily.
Food & water
Every climber should drink 4-6 liters of water every day. Staying hydrated will help you with acclimatization properly. You will be provided with the required amount of water by your support team. Food is prepared by tea houses during trekking and while climbing the support team will prepare it. Though, the menu option will not be very extensive, you will get enough healthy food throughout the trip. While climbing, due to extreme cold your body may reject the food but you have to force yourself to eat, and after some bites your body will start to accept it. Remember to avoid smoking and alcohol intake!
How long do climbers hike or climb every day?
You will be walking for 5-6 hours a day during trekking. But on summit day (climb summit and return back to base camp), you have to walk for about 12-14 hours as you will go as slowly as possible by using the right amount of energy and inhaling as much air as possible.
Permits required for Island Peak climbing
For climbing Island Peak, you need a climbing permit from Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA). It’s a legal document required to climb any peak of Nepal. Besides NMA permit, you also need to have Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit and Local Area Permit.
Trip Insurance
No matter how much you are prepared and take care of yourself, things are unpredictable in altitudes. So, it’s necessary to get covered. Make sure to get the insurance that covers emergency heli evacuation.
Gears you need while climbing Island Peak?
Right gears ensure the success of the trip to a large extent. You must have good quality gears and clothing. Besides trekking clothing and gears, you need the following gears for climbing.
Gear list:
Boots
Ice axe
Crampons
Ice bar
Zoomer
Ice screw
Harness
Figure of eight
Helmet
Carabiners
Climbing rope
